Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Star Gazer Books Lesson Plan (B. Restrepo)
These books can be done by students of all ages, depending on how much prepping you do. Young elementary students will need a lot of help with the construction, but they will be able to do the various parts themselves.
Aim(s): To make an interesting and unusual book
To explore materials of your choice on the inside pages
To integrate curriculum, depending on what theme you give your students
Materials:
cardboard squares (precut) just a little bit larger than the quarter-folded inside sheets (ours were 4 1/4");four sheets of nice white or medium to light watercolor paper; white glue in bottles; heavy-duty aluminum foil; pencils; black india ink; watercolors/acrylics/watercolor pencils/colored pencils/sharpie markers/markers/collage materials such as magazines or calendars/rubber stamps, etc.; ribbon or something to make a tie with; Optional: word processed narrative or report to collage in book
Motivation: Pictures and posters of whatever your theme might be
Procedure:
Cover:
Draw a bold image or letter that can be made into a raised glue image (we used initials) on one side of each cardboard square. Draw over the image with glue, letting it bead up. Put aside to dry overnight.
Cover with foil and over edges, "burnishing" it to create a bas-relief.
Brush india ink over the foil and wipe off, giving it a metallic, antique, look.
Insides:
Draw your images on the four pages. (Add the optional copy later, when you know placement.) Color in the materials of your choice. Sponge paint or color the backs, as well. Sometimes patterns look nice on the back, although there's nothing stopping you from having your imagery on both sides, of you can figure out where you are gluing them together ahead of time. (Read on...)
Fold in quarters when dry. Use the handles of scissors for crisp folds if you don't have a boning tool.
Glue one side of the folded page to the next, forming a star. Before gluing the star into your book, lay a ribbon or cord across book and glue or tape it in. The glue the two ends to each cover to form the book.
Reflection: As always, share your work.
Variations: Maureen has made ornaments using smaller pieces of paper and not doing the cover parts of this. You could probably make some interesting thematic mobiles with the stars as well, I would think.
Aim(s): To make an interesting and unusual book
To explore materials of your choice on the inside pages
To integrate curriculum, depending on what theme you give your students
Materials:
cardboard squares (precut) just a little bit larger than the quarter-folded inside sheets (ours were 4 1/4");four sheets of nice white or medium to light watercolor paper; white glue in bottles; heavy-duty aluminum foil; pencils; black india ink; watercolors/acrylics/watercolor pencils/colored pencils/sharpie markers/markers/collage materials such as magazines or calendars/rubber stamps, etc.; ribbon or something to make a tie with; Optional: word processed narrative or report to collage in book
Motivation: Pictures and posters of whatever your theme might be
Procedure:
Cover:
Draw a bold image or letter that can be made into a raised glue image (we used initials) on one side of each cardboard square. Draw over the image with glue, letting it bead up. Put aside to dry overnight.
Cover with foil and over edges, "burnishing" it to create a bas-relief.
Brush india ink over the foil and wipe off, giving it a metallic, antique, look.
Insides:
Draw your images on the four pages. (Add the optional copy later, when you know placement.) Color in the materials of your choice. Sponge paint or color the backs, as well. Sometimes patterns look nice on the back, although there's nothing stopping you from having your imagery on both sides, of you can figure out where you are gluing them together ahead of time. (Read on...)
Fold in quarters when dry. Use the handles of scissors for crisp folds if you don't have a boning tool.
Glue one side of the folded page to the next, forming a star. Before gluing the star into your book, lay a ribbon or cord across book and glue or tape it in. The glue the two ends to each cover to form the book.
Reflection: As always, share your work.
Variations: Maureen has made ornaments using smaller pieces of paper and not doing the cover parts of this. You could probably make some interesting thematic mobiles with the stars as well, I would think.
Plaster Craft FInger Puppets Lesson Plan
I’ve made these at birthday parties with children, making them at beginning, playing games while they dry and then painting them before the cake. They’re ready to take home by the end of the party. If you set up the lesson correctly, it’s really not messy.
Aims:
To explore the use of plaster craft
To create original puppet characters
To use puppets in student-produced puppet show
Materials: First Session: plaster craft cut into strips (do this over a garbage can, if possible to avoid dust); coffee cans filled with water 1” from top; vaseline; thick styrofoam from packaging with old pencils pushed in for easy drying; optional: aluminum foil/pipe cleaners or other easily bendable wire
Second Session: paint (tempera or acrylic); brushes; water cans; optional: feathers, googley eyes
Motivation: There are many ways to approach this lesson with children. If you have a few puppets already made, you could start the lesson with a puppet show about making puppets. Kids adore it when you make different voices for the characters. Or you could talk a bit about how plays are written and have your students write playlets (either in groups or individually) of their own. The important thing is to have at least two characters that can interact.
Teach your students how to make a beginning, middle and end to their plays and have them keep it short. (Kids’ plays can go on forever. A little editing here will be a good thing.)
In any case, the students should know ahead of time what character or characters they are making.
Vocabulary: character, dialogue, villain, hero/heroine, three-dimensional
Procedure: Gather your students around a large table, making sure that everyone can see. I have everyone take a step backwards to make the oval big enough so no one is blocked. If kids lean forward, people behind him are blocked.
I put a bit of vaseline on the finger I’m going to make the puppet on--usually the non-dominant index finger. Dip a plaster strip in the can and stroke it to remove the holes. Wrap LIGHTLY around finger and repeat two more times. Don’t make it too long on your finger and don’t make it too tight. It will harden quickly and you don’t want it to get struck! Explain this to your students. (So far, I’ve never had a student get one stuck.)
Scrunch a dampened piece or two or three into a ball to make a head and press it down. You have to be very patient doing this, since until it dries, it will tend to fall off. Add a snout, ears, paws, hind legs, a tail, etc. Work quickly so that wet sticks to wet better.
If you want to make something more complicated such as a butterfly, you need to use pipe cleaners to wrap around your form. Fold a piece of aluminum foil over the shapes to make it more solid and then cover with the plaster pieces. Make sure that you “activate” the pieces as you work.
When ready to paint, encourage the students to make a base coat on the sections and then to add details. You don't want little flecks of white showing through. When dry, students may use sharpie markers to draw fine details, if you like. Gluing on feathers, glitter, eyeballs, etc. is also an option. I use a hot glue gun for this, monitoring the students well, depending on their age.
Reflection: Follow-up: Make a puppet theater out of a large appliance box for students to use in the classroom. Add a real curtain.
Aims:
To explore the use of plaster craft
To create original puppet characters
To use puppets in student-produced puppet show
Materials: First Session: plaster craft cut into strips (do this over a garbage can, if possible to avoid dust); coffee cans filled with water 1” from top; vaseline; thick styrofoam from packaging with old pencils pushed in for easy drying; optional: aluminum foil/pipe cleaners or other easily bendable wire
Second Session: paint (tempera or acrylic); brushes; water cans; optional: feathers, googley eyes
Motivation: There are many ways to approach this lesson with children. If you have a few puppets already made, you could start the lesson with a puppet show about making puppets. Kids adore it when you make different voices for the characters. Or you could talk a bit about how plays are written and have your students write playlets (either in groups or individually) of their own. The important thing is to have at least two characters that can interact.
Teach your students how to make a beginning, middle and end to their plays and have them keep it short. (Kids’ plays can go on forever. A little editing here will be a good thing.)
In any case, the students should know ahead of time what character or characters they are making.
Vocabulary: character, dialogue, villain, hero/heroine, three-dimensional
Procedure: Gather your students around a large table, making sure that everyone can see. I have everyone take a step backwards to make the oval big enough so no one is blocked. If kids lean forward, people behind him are blocked.
I put a bit of vaseline on the finger I’m going to make the puppet on--usually the non-dominant index finger. Dip a plaster strip in the can and stroke it to remove the holes. Wrap LIGHTLY around finger and repeat two more times. Don’t make it too long on your finger and don’t make it too tight. It will harden quickly and you don’t want it to get struck! Explain this to your students. (So far, I’ve never had a student get one stuck.)
Scrunch a dampened piece or two or three into a ball to make a head and press it down. You have to be very patient doing this, since until it dries, it will tend to fall off. Add a snout, ears, paws, hind legs, a tail, etc. Work quickly so that wet sticks to wet better.
If you want to make something more complicated such as a butterfly, you need to use pipe cleaners to wrap around your form. Fold a piece of aluminum foil over the shapes to make it more solid and then cover with the plaster pieces. Make sure that you “activate” the pieces as you work.
When ready to paint, encourage the students to make a base coat on the sections and then to add details. You don't want little flecks of white showing through. When dry, students may use sharpie markers to draw fine details, if you like. Gluing on feathers, glitter, eyeballs, etc. is also an option. I use a hot glue gun for this, monitoring the students well, depending on their age.
Reflection: Follow-up: Make a puppet theater out of a large appliance box for students to use in the classroom. Add a real curtain.
Paper Mache Masks Lesson Plan
Paper Mache Masks--Grades K (with help) and Up
This is a wonderful technique that can be used in so many ways. I use art paste (methyl cellulose) which doesn’t get moldy or stinky like flour and water does.
Aims: To make an original, wearable mask
To explore the use of paper mache
Materials & Tools
newspaper (lots of it)
masking tape
scissors
odds and ends to use for the underbody (styrofoam cups, cardboard pieces, egg cartons, foil, etc. etc.
art paste
bowl or bucket for “slime”
For painting: tempera paint (or acrylic)
brushes
Optional: pipe cleaners, feathers, raffia, yarn, tissue paper, fabrics and other decorative items
Procedure: Motivate your students with pictures of masks from the culture you are studying. There are numerous examples from all over Africa, New Guinea and Oceania, Eskimo, Asian Indian, American Indian, etc.
To construct the mask, form a loose bunch of newspapers into the size you want the mask and tape it together. Tape on objects to make the form three dimensional--eyes might be egg carton pieces or coffee cup bottoms. Make sure it is very three-dimensional. Add ears, horns, a beard, etc. with cardboard or styrofoam. Use scrunched-up foil to form shapes, too. It doesn’t have to look good at this stage; it just has to hold together for the covering process. Look at the mask in profile and make sure you have enough things sticking out to make it sculptural.
To paper mache, cover your work area. Mix several tablespoons of art paste into water. A little will go along way. Use you hand to mix and get rid of any small lumps. It will thicken in a few minutes and you may then have to add more water.
Rip lots of newspaper into strips, along the grain. Make them mostly medium-sized--about 1-1/2” by 4 or 5 inches. You’ll need tons of them.
When you are ready to paper mache, dip each piece in the art paste mixture, scissor off with your fingers so it doesn’t drip too much and smack down, going over the piece a few times to make sure it conforms to the outline of your shapes. You’ll need about 3 or 4 layers for a strong mask. Go every which way, not just in one direction. Patting down is key for the surface to look good.
When dry, take out the “guts”. Sometimes you’ll need to cut around the back edges with scissors to pull out the form. You can use an exacto knife to cut out eye slits or nostrils, which you only need if you are going to wear it.
If you are painting you mask a light color, putting on a coat of white first will help block out the newspaper print. References of painted masks will help your students paint their masks more beautifully. Details are important to add at this point.
You may use hot glue to add decorative items like yarn, tissue paper or feathers.
This is a wonderful technique that can be used in so many ways. I use art paste (methyl cellulose) which doesn’t get moldy or stinky like flour and water does.
Aims: To make an original, wearable mask
To explore the use of paper mache
Materials & Tools
newspaper (lots of it)
masking tape
scissors
odds and ends to use for the underbody (styrofoam cups, cardboard pieces, egg cartons, foil, etc. etc.
art paste
bowl or bucket for “slime”
For painting: tempera paint (or acrylic)
brushes
Optional: pipe cleaners, feathers, raffia, yarn, tissue paper, fabrics and other decorative items
Procedure: Motivate your students with pictures of masks from the culture you are studying. There are numerous examples from all over Africa, New Guinea and Oceania, Eskimo, Asian Indian, American Indian, etc.
To construct the mask, form a loose bunch of newspapers into the size you want the mask and tape it together. Tape on objects to make the form three dimensional--eyes might be egg carton pieces or coffee cup bottoms. Make sure it is very three-dimensional. Add ears, horns, a beard, etc. with cardboard or styrofoam. Use scrunched-up foil to form shapes, too. It doesn’t have to look good at this stage; it just has to hold together for the covering process. Look at the mask in profile and make sure you have enough things sticking out to make it sculptural.
To paper mache, cover your work area. Mix several tablespoons of art paste into water. A little will go along way. Use you hand to mix and get rid of any small lumps. It will thicken in a few minutes and you may then have to add more water.
Rip lots of newspaper into strips, along the grain. Make them mostly medium-sized--about 1-1/2” by 4 or 5 inches. You’ll need tons of them.
When you are ready to paper mache, dip each piece in the art paste mixture, scissor off with your fingers so it doesn’t drip too much and smack down, going over the piece a few times to make sure it conforms to the outline of your shapes. You’ll need about 3 or 4 layers for a strong mask. Go every which way, not just in one direction. Patting down is key for the surface to look good.
When dry, take out the “guts”. Sometimes you’ll need to cut around the back edges with scissors to pull out the form. You can use an exacto knife to cut out eye slits or nostrils, which you only need if you are going to wear it.
If you are painting you mask a light color, putting on a coat of white first will help block out the newspaper print. References of painted masks will help your students paint their masks more beautifully. Details are important to add at this point.
You may use hot glue to add decorative items like yarn, tissue paper or feathers.
Plaster Craft Masks Lesson Plan
For ages 10 and Up
Aim: To make self-portrait masks
To learn how to use plastercraft to make sculpture
Materials: plastercraft, also called Pariscraft
vaseline
pencil
watercan
scissors
plastic garbage bags to cover laps
smocks, aprons
newspaper balled up loosely and tape to make face form
heavy cardboard or picture frame without glass
hot glue gun
yarn the color of hair
sharpie marker
acrylic or tempera paint, brushes, palettes
optional: showercaps or headbands to pull hair back
accessories (hats, jewelry, eyeglasses)
Vocabulary: plaster
"death" mask
Procedure: This project was the culminating art experience that students at my former elementary school got to make. They all looked forward to it. It takes several art periods, but is truly worth it.
On the first day, I would discuss self-portraits in general and what a death mask was in particular. I then get a volunteer "Victim." Have the victim put vaseline on their face over eyebrows, lips and around the edges. While he is doing this, I show how to cut the plastercraft into pieces with scissors. Be mindful to explain to kids not to blow the dust around when they do this step. You need about 30 pieces 5" x 1 1/4" or so; 8-10 pieces 1/2" x 3" for the nose and 10-15 pieces inbetween the other two sizes.
Put water in the can or container and place it NEAR THE EDGE OF THE TABLE WITH THE PLASTER STRIPS IN THE CENTER OF THE TABLE. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!! When plaster gets wet it starts to harden and becomes unusable, so you don't want put droplets of water on the strips by mistake.
Dip a larger piece into the water and stroke it. Sometimes you have to stroke it several times to get it to soften; other times, it gets soggy right away. The point is to get rid of the tiny holes in the material. As you pat down on the skin, there should be no holes visible at all. Start on the forehead, do the sides of the face and a little on the cheeks. Next take small pieces and make an X" on the top of the nose. Keep patting each piece down. Work deliberately and carefully. Don't rush the process. Here and there you'll need a medium sized piece to smooth things out. Don't work too thickly, but do put about three layers on each area. I find it works best to make the direction of the strips somewhat random than all horizontal, say. The places the masks tend to break are at the side of the head (temples) and the top of the nose (bridge). DO NOT COVER THE NOSTRILS OR THE EYES. Also, if someone has a nose cold, have them wait to do this until they are better. Breathing through your nose is crucial because the mouth will be covered.
Have a loose form of taped newspaper ready. When hardened (20 minutes or so), pull off at sides. Lay on the form and fill in the eyeballs and nose. The victim washes his face while the perpetrator finishes the mask. Poke a finger gently from the back to round out the nose tip, if necessary. Write the person's name in pencil inside the mask.
When the students do this project, they pair up and take turns on different days doing each other as victim and perp. If you have an odd number of kids, two can work on one mask.
When all masks are completed and dry, have students trim side edges straight OVER A GARBAGE CAN TO PREVENT UNNECESSARY DUST. Then the masks can be glued down on the cardboard with a hot glue gun.
The next art period(s)the students will paint the faces and background. I have them paint the entire face and neck skin color first before drawing on the features. You have to remind them that all things are life sized. Some students will make the eyes too big, so this step has to be approached slowly and carefully. After the skin is dry, I have them draw the almond shape of their eyeballs in pencil on the eye socket areas, using a mirror. They then draw in the iris, which is not a ball, but a part of a ball. They also draw in the eyelid line. These parts can be outlined in sharpie, once they are correct, but not until.
The background should be something fun: a place they love, something imaginary, people they care about, pets, etc. Clothing can be whatever.
The last step is gluing on hair and any real accessories.
These portraits were traditionally displayed at our sixth grade graduation and they looked so fabulous in the hallway.
Aim: To make self-portrait masks
To learn how to use plastercraft to make sculpture
Materials: plastercraft, also called Pariscraft
vaseline
pencil
watercan
scissors
plastic garbage bags to cover laps
smocks, aprons
newspaper balled up loosely and tape to make face form
heavy cardboard or picture frame without glass
hot glue gun
yarn the color of hair
sharpie marker
acrylic or tempera paint, brushes, palettes
optional: showercaps or headbands to pull hair back
accessories (hats, jewelry, eyeglasses)
Vocabulary: plaster
"death" mask
Procedure: This project was the culminating art experience that students at my former elementary school got to make. They all looked forward to it. It takes several art periods, but is truly worth it.
On the first day, I would discuss self-portraits in general and what a death mask was in particular. I then get a volunteer "Victim." Have the victim put vaseline on their face over eyebrows, lips and around the edges. While he is doing this, I show how to cut the plastercraft into pieces with scissors. Be mindful to explain to kids not to blow the dust around when they do this step. You need about 30 pieces 5" x 1 1/4" or so; 8-10 pieces 1/2" x 3" for the nose and 10-15 pieces inbetween the other two sizes.
Put water in the can or container and place it NEAR THE EDGE OF THE TABLE WITH THE PLASTER STRIPS IN THE CENTER OF THE TABLE. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!! When plaster gets wet it starts to harden and becomes unusable, so you don't want put droplets of water on the strips by mistake.
Dip a larger piece into the water and stroke it. Sometimes you have to stroke it several times to get it to soften; other times, it gets soggy right away. The point is to get rid of the tiny holes in the material. As you pat down on the skin, there should be no holes visible at all. Start on the forehead, do the sides of the face and a little on the cheeks. Next take small pieces and make an X" on the top of the nose. Keep patting each piece down. Work deliberately and carefully. Don't rush the process. Here and there you'll need a medium sized piece to smooth things out. Don't work too thickly, but do put about three layers on each area. I find it works best to make the direction of the strips somewhat random than all horizontal, say. The places the masks tend to break are at the side of the head (temples) and the top of the nose (bridge). DO NOT COVER THE NOSTRILS OR THE EYES. Also, if someone has a nose cold, have them wait to do this until they are better. Breathing through your nose is crucial because the mouth will be covered.
Have a loose form of taped newspaper ready. When hardened (20 minutes or so), pull off at sides. Lay on the form and fill in the eyeballs and nose. The victim washes his face while the perpetrator finishes the mask. Poke a finger gently from the back to round out the nose tip, if necessary. Write the person's name in pencil inside the mask.
When the students do this project, they pair up and take turns on different days doing each other as victim and perp. If you have an odd number of kids, two can work on one mask.
When all masks are completed and dry, have students trim side edges straight OVER A GARBAGE CAN TO PREVENT UNNECESSARY DUST. Then the masks can be glued down on the cardboard with a hot glue gun.
The next art period(s)the students will paint the faces and background. I have them paint the entire face and neck skin color first before drawing on the features. You have to remind them that all things are life sized. Some students will make the eyes too big, so this step has to be approached slowly and carefully. After the skin is dry, I have them draw the almond shape of their eyeballs in pencil on the eye socket areas, using a mirror. They then draw in the iris, which is not a ball, but a part of a ball. They also draw in the eyelid line. These parts can be outlined in sharpie, once they are correct, but not until.
The background should be something fun: a place they love, something imaginary, people they care about, pets, etc. Clothing can be whatever.
The last step is gluing on hair and any real accessories.
These portraits were traditionally displayed at our sixth grade graduation and they looked so fabulous in the hallway.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Moving Eye Ball Portraits Lesson Plan
Moving Eyeball Portraits--Grades 2 (with help) and up
A variation on the well-worn self-portrait lesson. I developed this after I did a haunted house for my elementary school many years ago in which I made a painting of the principal and had her eyes move to scare the children.
Aims:
•To learn about the self-portrait genre
•To learn how to make a self-portrait
•To teach children that a portrait can be interactive
Materials and Tools:
sheet of oak tag or bristol board
length of oak tag 8” longer than the width of the self-portrait
piece of oak tag about 4” high and same length as width of portrait
pencil, eraser
sharpie marker
watercolor
watercolor brush
water can
masking tape
pointed scissors
Optional: colored pencils and small mirrors
Procedure:
You’ll want to explain the difference between portraits and self-portraits. It would be a good idea to have several examples of each to show your students. Next, explain that they are going to be creating self-portraits that will do something funny, but don’t tell them ahead of time. Let it be a surprise!
First, depending on the age of the student, you’ll want to make sure that the portrait is large enough to have the eyeballs cut out. Next explain the difference between what they might think a head looks like and what it actually looks like. If you have mirrors available, distribute them at this point. The head is not round, it is oval or egg-shaped. Your neck is not a lollipop stick; it is thicker. Eyes do not grow out of the top of one’s head; they’re just a tad above the middle. They are almond-shaped and you usually don’t see the whole of the iris; part of it is normally hidden. Be sure to put in eyelids and eyebrows, too. The nose is not a hook or a pig nose; use the steps I showed in class (parentheses, snake, shade in ends of snake, two light lights to create bridge of nose). When doing the lips, it’s easy to teach kids to draw the line where they meet when closed, which is usually wavy followed by a mountain range on top and a boat underneath. Remember to explain that everyone’s mountains, boats, snakes, etc. are different and it is important to observe what theirs looks like.
Have them add ears, hair and other details. The background can also be personalized with a place they love or something they love doing or friends, pets, etc.
Next they should go over their lines with sharpies. Then they can paint the portrait. Skin colors are mixed on the palette part of the paint box, which is the open lid. First, “wake the colors up” by making a puddle in each paint pad. Then take orange and put it on the palette. Add some clean water. Then add a bit or brown, little by little until the color seems right. For darker skin, keep adding brown. The color will dry lighter on your paper, so plan accordingly. Avoid caterpillar lips and the like by not painting over another color until it is absolutely dry. I demonstrate what not to do and kids get the point quite quickly. Watercolor goes into paper like apple juice into a white shag carpet and if you add grape juice it will all mix around together.
When dry, you can go over with more watercolor or add another media like colored pencils.
Next cut out the almond shape of the eyeballs. Place the 4” piece of oak tag on the back of the picture, just above the empty sockets. Tape on top and bottom to form a pocket. Next, slide in the long piece of oak tag and center it with 4” on each side sticking out. Draw the irises in, not as circles, but as parentheses. Add the pupil. Pull out and finish the circles of the eyes and color in. When dry, slide back in and move back and forth and up and down to create funny looks.
Reflection:
Share the work. Guess who the portraits are of, etc.
Follow-up:
Student could do moving eyeball portraits of animals, family members, school personnel, etc.
A variation on the well-worn self-portrait lesson. I developed this after I did a haunted house for my elementary school many years ago in which I made a painting of the principal and had her eyes move to scare the children.
Aims:
•To learn about the self-portrait genre
•To learn how to make a self-portrait
•To teach children that a portrait can be interactive
Materials and Tools:
sheet of oak tag or bristol board
length of oak tag 8” longer than the width of the self-portrait
piece of oak tag about 4” high and same length as width of portrait
pencil, eraser
sharpie marker
watercolor
watercolor brush
water can
masking tape
pointed scissors
Optional: colored pencils and small mirrors
Procedure:
You’ll want to explain the difference between portraits and self-portraits. It would be a good idea to have several examples of each to show your students. Next, explain that they are going to be creating self-portraits that will do something funny, but don’t tell them ahead of time. Let it be a surprise!
First, depending on the age of the student, you’ll want to make sure that the portrait is large enough to have the eyeballs cut out. Next explain the difference between what they might think a head looks like and what it actually looks like. If you have mirrors available, distribute them at this point. The head is not round, it is oval or egg-shaped. Your neck is not a lollipop stick; it is thicker. Eyes do not grow out of the top of one’s head; they’re just a tad above the middle. They are almond-shaped and you usually don’t see the whole of the iris; part of it is normally hidden. Be sure to put in eyelids and eyebrows, too. The nose is not a hook or a pig nose; use the steps I showed in class (parentheses, snake, shade in ends of snake, two light lights to create bridge of nose). When doing the lips, it’s easy to teach kids to draw the line where they meet when closed, which is usually wavy followed by a mountain range on top and a boat underneath. Remember to explain that everyone’s mountains, boats, snakes, etc. are different and it is important to observe what theirs looks like.
Have them add ears, hair and other details. The background can also be personalized with a place they love or something they love doing or friends, pets, etc.
Next they should go over their lines with sharpies. Then they can paint the portrait. Skin colors are mixed on the palette part of the paint box, which is the open lid. First, “wake the colors up” by making a puddle in each paint pad. Then take orange and put it on the palette. Add some clean water. Then add a bit or brown, little by little until the color seems right. For darker skin, keep adding brown. The color will dry lighter on your paper, so plan accordingly. Avoid caterpillar lips and the like by not painting over another color until it is absolutely dry. I demonstrate what not to do and kids get the point quite quickly. Watercolor goes into paper like apple juice into a white shag carpet and if you add grape juice it will all mix around together.
When dry, you can go over with more watercolor or add another media like colored pencils.
Next cut out the almond shape of the eyeballs. Place the 4” piece of oak tag on the back of the picture, just above the empty sockets. Tape on top and bottom to form a pocket. Next, slide in the long piece of oak tag and center it with 4” on each side sticking out. Draw the irises in, not as circles, but as parentheses. Add the pupil. Pull out and finish the circles of the eyes and color in. When dry, slide back in and move back and forth and up and down to create funny looks.
Reflection:
Share the work. Guess who the portraits are of, etc.
Follow-up:
Student could do moving eyeball portraits of animals, family members, school personnel, etc.
Face Books Lesson Plan--Grades 4 and Up
Exquisite Corpse Book--Grades 4 and up
This is a fun book to make, pure and simple! It was inspired by a book my children had many years ago.
Aim:
•To create an interactive, creative book
•To invent unusual characters and details that will “morph” into each other
•To learn how to use a ruler and measure
•To learn about the surrealist game of the Exquisite Corpse
Materials & Tools:
Bristol board or oak tag (several sheets)
pencil, eraser
colored pencils, sharpie markers, crayons, colored markers
scissors
stapler, tape
Procedure:
Establish guidelines for your students or you’ll be driven insane. Have the sizes of the “cuts” established as well as the side margins on each cut.
I’ve always measured the whole page and cut last but after making one, you may choose to cut first.
Plan on dividing the pages into four or five sections. Each section will not be the same size! The top section will probably be bigger than the eye area, etc. One basic 5-section example might be 3” hat/hairline/2” eyes and eyebrows/1 1/2” nose/2 1/2” lips and chin/3” neck to body. Like our exquisite corpse animal, the margins must mesh, so make each piece a set size--say the hat piece 1” on each side and the eye piece 3/4” on each side, etc.
Motivate your students by talking first about Surrealism and then about crazy hairstyles, hats, jewelry, costumes, etc. that they might be able to come up with. You might have some picture library examples which will spark ideas and your discussion.
Next then need to measure out their sheets. This might be boring, but make them learn how to use a ruler!
Have each student do at least four different faces, letting them be a bit silly but not mean. They will then color in their books. Have students cut their pages leaving about 3/4” on left side for strength.
Assemble the books by stapling the left edges together. I like the idea of making a solid cover which could be slightly bigger and glued to the staples “spine.” You may come up with other variations.
Reflection:
Your students will love seeing some of the wacky combinations that will come up.
Variations:
•Have your students make books made up of one page of their own and three from other friends.
•Do the whole figure of various people or creatures.
•My student, Delia, had the great idea of having students do probability
lessons using these books.
This is a fun book to make, pure and simple! It was inspired by a book my children had many years ago.
Aim:
•To create an interactive, creative book
•To invent unusual characters and details that will “morph” into each other
•To learn how to use a ruler and measure
•To learn about the surrealist game of the Exquisite Corpse
Materials & Tools:
Bristol board or oak tag (several sheets)
pencil, eraser
colored pencils, sharpie markers, crayons, colored markers
scissors
stapler, tape
Procedure:
Establish guidelines for your students or you’ll be driven insane. Have the sizes of the “cuts” established as well as the side margins on each cut.
I’ve always measured the whole page and cut last but after making one, you may choose to cut first.
Plan on dividing the pages into four or five sections. Each section will not be the same size! The top section will probably be bigger than the eye area, etc. One basic 5-section example might be 3” hat/hairline/2” eyes and eyebrows/1 1/2” nose/2 1/2” lips and chin/3” neck to body. Like our exquisite corpse animal, the margins must mesh, so make each piece a set size--say the hat piece 1” on each side and the eye piece 3/4” on each side, etc.
Motivate your students by talking first about Surrealism and then about crazy hairstyles, hats, jewelry, costumes, etc. that they might be able to come up with. You might have some picture library examples which will spark ideas and your discussion.
Next then need to measure out their sheets. This might be boring, but make them learn how to use a ruler!
Have each student do at least four different faces, letting them be a bit silly but not mean. They will then color in their books. Have students cut their pages leaving about 3/4” on left side for strength.
Assemble the books by stapling the left edges together. I like the idea of making a solid cover which could be slightly bigger and glued to the staples “spine.” You may come up with other variations.
Reflection:
Your students will love seeing some of the wacky combinations that will come up.
Variations:
•Have your students make books made up of one page of their own and three from other friends.
•Do the whole figure of various people or creatures.
•My student, Delia, had the great idea of having students do probability
lessons using these books.
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